Exfoliating agents are used in cosmetic products to:
- Remove old cells and create new cells to regenerate the skin.
- Combat visible signs of aging (fine lines and wrinkles).
- Reduce skin dullness, increase cell turnover, and create smoother, brighter skin.
There are two types of exfoliation: chemical and physical (also known as mechanical).
Chemical exfoliation
This method uses chemical compounds to dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This allows the old cells to shed more easily. Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid
Mechanical or physical exfoliation
In this method, scrub particles such as plastic microbeads, jojoba beads, polylactic acid (PLA) beads, natural particles are used to physically remove dead skin cells.
Selection of exfoliating agents
Given the wide range of exfoliating agents offered by manufacturers, choosing the right exfoliant for a specific skin type and problem is a serious challenge for formulators. Important criteria for selecting exfoliants include the following:
Type of particles: Exfoliating particles can be obtained from a variety of sources, including natural or synthetic materials. The choice of particle type depends on factors such as desired abrasiveness, cost, and compatibility with other materials.
Particle size and shape: The size and shape of particles play an important role in determining their exfoliating effectiveness. Larger, irregular particles tend to be more abrasive and are more suitable for body scrubs. Smaller, rounder particles are gentler on the skin and are preferred for use on the face.
Particle concentration: The concentration of particles affects the amount of exfoliation. It must be carefully balanced to avoid over-exfoliation or skin irritation.
