In the world of skincare, words like “anti-aging,” “hydrating,” and “soothing” are always on the rise, and their key functions have consumers looking for them in their skincare products. Osmolytes are small, naturally occurring molecules that help cells retain water and protect them from environmental stressors like UV rays and heat. In skincare, despite their proven ability to strengthen the skin barrier and provide long-lasting moisture, osmolytes have largely been overshadowed by better-known active ingredients like hyaluronic acid and aloe vera.
The main osmolytes used in skincare include betaine, inositol, and taurine. These molecules offer several benefits:
1- Boost hydration: Osmolytes help retain moisture in the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) by acting as water magnets.
2- Strengthening the skin barrier: Osmolytes protect the tight junction proteins that connect cells in the epidermis and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier function.
3- Protecting against dehydration: They manage the water balance in the skin and protect skin cells from dehydration in the event of UV or heat stress, increasing the overall moisture of the skin.
Natural betaine is an amino acid derivative that is present in the body and skin as a small hydrophilic molecule that attracts and retains water. In nature, betaine can be found in sugar beet cells. Natural betaine is recycled from the waste stream of the sugar production process.
Natural betaine is used as a humectant in personal care due to its moisturizing properties (optimizing hydration). Natural betaine also, can help manage the skin’s water balance and protect it from dehydration through osmosis. Osmosis is the driving force by which water moves in and out of cells. In the skin, keratinocytes actively use osmolytes to survive the hyperosmotic stress caused by dry skin. In addition, natural betaine can help strengthen the integrity of tight junctions to improve cell cohesion and limit water loss through the skin barrier, protecting the skin from dehydration.
For those with sensitive skin, natural betaine is a no-brainer. Natural betaine is gentle on the skin and can help reduce irritation caused by surfactants. Natural betaine is also commonly used to formulate baby care products due to its mildness.
Natural betaine not only supports product performance, but can also help improve product texture to create skincare products that provide a better all-around experience for consumers. When it comes to products like moisturizers, consumers want products that are soft on the skin and non-sticky. Natural betaine helps enhance the sensory profile of the product, such as improving the silky feel, reducing stickiness and oiliness, as well as improving the spreadability of the product for the desired texture.
Natural betaine is compatible with many skincare ingredients and the most popular active ingredients such as vitamin B5, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and niacinamide.
